Central heating repair visit
Minimum charge including attendance, diagnosis, travel within 25 miles of South Molton, and up to 60 minutes at the property. Parts, materials and further work are quoted separately.

Fremington, North Devon
Fremington is about 15 miles from South Molton, a little over twenty minutes, and close enough to Barnstaple that I can usually get there quickly. If your heating's gone down, call me and I'll tell yo
Fremington is about 15 miles from South Molton, a little over twenty minutes, and close enough to Barnstaple that I can usually get there quickly. If your heating's gone down, call me and I'll tell you the earliest I can fit you in around my current route.
I'm George Lane. I've been working on domestic central heating for over 25 years, I'm Gas Safe registered, and I moved to North Devon from Kent where I ran a busy repairs business across a big patch. Fremington is effectively local for me — just west of Barnstaple along the Taw estuary, and I'm through it regularly. I know the housing here: older village properties, post-war housing, and the newer detached estates on the edges. They've all got different heating systems, and the faults follow suit.
What happens when I get to you: I diagnose the fault properly, tell you exactly what it is and what it'll cost, then fix it. No parts fitted on guesswork, no woolly estimates. If I can sort it that visit I usually will; if a part's needed, you'll get the cost up front and I'll order it in.
Legally required for all gas work. Reg: 515374. Verify at gassaferegister.co.uk.
All major brands: Worcester Bosch, Vaillant, Baxi, Ideal, Glow-worm, Potterton.
Fixed price after diagnosis before any work starts. No hidden fees.
Serving Fremington and surrounding areas from South Molton.
All prices include VAT. Travel within 25 miles of South Molton is included. Beyond that area, a £30 travel charge applies and is confirmed before booking.
Minimum charge including attendance, diagnosis, travel within 25 miles of South Molton, and up to 60 minutes at the property. Parts, materials and further work are quoted separately.
Cold radiators are my most frequent call, and where the cold sits tells you everything. Cold at the top means air — a pocket the water hasn't filled. Bleed it with a radiator key and the water rises and pushes the air out. Cold at the bottom is a different fault entirely: sludge and magnetite settled in the base, restricting the flow. Bleeding does nothing there, because the water arriving is already blocked at floor level. If one radiator is cold while the rest are fine, the likeliest cause is a TRV with a seized pin. That pin can stick shut, especially on valves that have sat untouched in the same house for fifteen or twenty years — the head turns beautifully and the pin doesn't move at all. That's the first thing I check.
Noisy systems each tell you something different. Kettling, the low rumble or popping from the boiler, is limescale forming on the heat exchanger. It's less common in North Devon than in hard water areas, but older systems and ones that have never had inhibitor still manage it. Banging or clunking in the pipework usually means water hammer or the pump cavitating. Gurgling from radiators or pipes is air in the circuit.
Pressure loss on sealed systems comes down to three things: a failed expansion vessel (the rubber diaphragm ruptures and the vessel waterlogs, so it can't absorb thermal expansion, pressure jumps every time the system heats and the pressure relief valve weeps), a PRV that's weeping at normal pressure, or a slow leak at a joint, radiator valve or fitting. Fremington has both older open-vented systems and modern sealed ones, and the pressure conversation only applies to the sealed pressurised sort.
Thermostat and programmer faults get blamed on the boiler far too often. If the controls aren't calling for heat properly the boiler never fires, and from the outside that looks exactly like a boiler fault. I check the controls on every diagnostic.
Zone valve failures are common past ten years. S-plan systems use two separate 2-port motorised valves, one for heating and one for hot water; Y-plan uses a single 3-port mid-position valve. Honeywell V4043, Danfoss and Drayton are the ones I meet most. They go with stuck actuator heads, burnt-out motors, and microswitch faults where the valve opens but never tells the boiler to fire.
Pump failure — a seized impeller, worn bearings or air binding — stops circulation and leaves the whole house cold. Grundfos Alpha and Wilo Yonos are what I find in most Fremington properties from the last fifteen to twenty years.
The TRV is the first thing I look at on a cold radiator. It controls flow into the radiator through a spring-loaded pin that opens and closes as the head tells it to. On older valves — anything from the late 1990s or early 2000s — that pin can seize shut through corrosion or calcium at the valve seat. Pull the head off, press the pin by hand, and you'll know at once. Sometimes it frees with a bit of persuasion; more often the valve body needs replacing.
If the TRV's working, I bleed the radiator. Air out, radiator warms up, simple. No air and a cold bottom means sludge, and that points at a power flush.
Lockshield balancing matters where the radiators near the boiler run hot and the far rooms never warm up. The lockshield on each radiator sets how much flow it takes, and adjusting them so the temperature drop across each one is consistent spreads the heat evenly round the house. It takes a while to set up properly, but you notice it.
Replacing a radiator that's corroded through at the weld seams and weeping is a drain, swap and refill. I check the inhibitor concentration before refilling and top it up to the right dose.
Fremington splits roughly into three kinds of property, each with its own heating habits.
The older village core — the properties near the church, the historic centre, the lanes running down to Fremington Quay on the Taw — tends to have older conventional systems, some of them gravity-fed open-vented circuits with a conventional boiler and a hot water cylinder. What goes wrong there is sludge built up over years without a flush, tired pumps (older Grundfos UPS units rather than modern Alphas), and TRVs seized through never being used. Those systems come back nicely after a power flush and a magnetic filter.
The post-war and mid-century housing in the body of the village — semis, terraces, bungalows — often has systems that were half updated. A new boiler bolted onto an old circuit, or a combi dropped in where a conventional boiler used to be, without the pipework being properly reworked. Those hybrids throw up faults that need careful diagnosis, because they don't behave the way a standard installation would.
The newer detached developments round the edges, handy for the A39, have modern sealed pressurised systems. The faults there are what you'd expect on something ten to twenty years old: expansion vessel diaphragms starting to fail, TRVs nobody has ever serviced, zone valve heads starting to stick.
Fremington Quay and the estuary stretch is one of North Devon's better-known heritage and leisure spots, but the houses near it want the same practical things from their heating as anywhere else. Being that close to the estuary does mean more damp about, which can hurry along corrosion on older unprotected external pipework.
You'll get an answer. Ring or message during the working day and you'll hear back the same day; evenings and weekends, it'll be the next working day. And if it isn't a job for me, I'll tell you that and point you at someone who can help, rather than going quiet on you.
When you book, I'll confirm it and give you a two-hour window rather than a whole day sat at home waiting. On the morning you get a text with a tracking link, so you can see where I've got to instead of wondering. Traffic and the job before yours are real, so it's a window rather than a promise to the minute, but if it slips you'll hear it from me first.
Call 01271 444410 or email info@tarkaboilersbarnstaple.co.uk.
I'll come out, find the fault, tell you what it is and what it costs to fix, and fix it.
Related services in Fremington:
Usually one of three: a stuck or failed TRV, where the pin seizes shut so flow can't get in; an airlock in that radiator; or sludge blocking the bottom of it. Less often it's balancing, with one circuit starved of flow. I can normally work out which within a few minutes on site.
They look different. An air lock sits at the top: the top stays cold and the rest of the panel is warm or cold depending how much air's in there. Bleed it with a radiator key and the air comes out and water fills the space. Sludge sits at the bottom, so the bottom stays cool while the top is warm, and bleeding won't touch it. That one's a power flush.
On a sealed system it's most often a waterlogged expansion vessel. The diaphragm has failed, the vessel can't buffer thermal expansion any more, pressure climbs each time the system heats up, and the PRV weeps a little water off to relieve it — so you end up topping up regularly. It can also be a slow leak at a joint or valve, or a PRV that's simply worn out. I trace the actual cause rather than just topping it up.
It's the British Standard for treating water in domestic hot water central heating systems. It sets out how to flush a system, how to dose inhibitor, and what the water should end up like. Working to BS 7593 means the flush is done properly and the inhibitor actually reaches the right concentration — not water through the pipes and a splash of chemical for appearances.
Yes. Open-vented gravity-fed systems are common in the older Fremington properties and I'm on them regularly. They fail differently to modern pressurised systems: there's no pressure to lose, but they're prone to sludge, pump wear and airlocks. The feed-and-expansion tank in the loft wants looking at now and then too, particularly in a damp loft.
It depends on my route and the jobs already booked. I'll give you an honest availability and arrival window when you call.